In today's world, the hardest part of traveling is often getting through airport security. While airports can be a drag, air travel is convenient and time efficient. Turbulence is a nuisance, but it's not as bad as an unimproved road in the back a horse drawn wagon.
Imagine traveling to colonial America for the first time. Your journey across the Atlantic would have been brutal—weeks crammed into a dark, damp ship, with sickness running rampant. If you arrived in Alexandria in its early days, you might have had to wait for the rest of your party or for supplies to arrive from England. Finding a place to stay wasn’t as simple as booking a room online. There were no posh hotels or historic Airbnb properties. Instead, you relied on taverns, also known as "ordinaries," which were among the earliest businesses to spring up in the new settlements.
Taverns in Alexandria: The Heart of Colonial Travel
Overland travel in the 18th century was grueling. A well-equipped wagon train could cover just 12 miles a day, and roads were so rough that many people preferred to walk beside their wagons rather than endure the bumpy ride. Because most of Colonial Virginia’s infrastructure was tied to waterways, towns like Alexandria—situated on the deep waters of the Potomac—became critical hubs for commerce and travel.
Taverns were a vital part of this system. More than just places to eat and sleep, they were the social and political centers of early America. Travelers, merchants, and even government officials gathered in these establishments to exchange news, conduct business, and debate politics over pints of ale, glasses of madeira wine, and perhaps rum or whiskey.
One other notable feature of most taverns was the total lack of privacy. Forget about getting your own room. Most people didn't even have their own beds. In fact, beds were typically on the floor. Some beds were crudely assembled with a wood frame and then ropes were used for the bed springs. When the ropes came loose, there was a tool that was used to tighten them again. This allowed people to sleep tight!
George Washington’s Tavern Experiences
George Washington, an experienced traveler, wrote in his diaries about his stays in colonial taverns. In 1748, during one of his early surveying expeditions, he covered up to 40 miles a day—a remarkable feat at the time. However, not all his accommodations were pleasant. In one account, he describes checking into a tavern, only to find the sheets threadbare and the bed infested with lice and vermin. Rather than suffer through the night, he chose to sleep outside by a fire.
We know that Washington wined and dined at many taverns in Old Town Alexandria. One of the most prominent taverns that no longer exists was Arell's Tavern. The former location of Arell's Tavern is in Alexandria's Market Square.
Several of the locations that were once taverns include Gadsby's Tavern, Wise's Tavern, and Duvall's Tavern. At Gadsby's Tavern, people can still eat and drink in the restaurant. Duvall's Tavern still retains a lot of its early tavern characteristics. While the public cannot enter to get food and drink, people can rent the property as it is available on Airbnb!
Regulating Taverns in Colonial Virginia
By the late 17th century, the Virginia government recognized the importance of taverns in supporting economic growth. However, with alcohol consumption came problems, particularly gambling and drunkenness. To keep them in check, taverns became heavily regulated:
1677 – Virginia passed legislation requiring taverns to provide food, drink, and lodging. This law aimed to prevent unlicensed "tippling houses" that sold alcohol illegally.
1749 – Tavern keepers had to pay for a license, costing 35 shillings—roughly a week’s wages for a skilled craftsman.
1762 – An amendment was made to the 1749 law, though details on changes varied by location.
1768 – The Virginia government found itself in arrears by 170,000 pounds due to tavern keepers either failing to pay their licenses or running illegal tippling houses.
1770 – Alexandria’s first brewery opened on the banks of the Potomac, expanding the city’s role in colonial hospitality.
By the 1750s, Alexandria had 18 licensed tavern keepers—17 men and one woman—showing that while the industry was male-dominated, women did find opportunities in hospitality. In fact, we know that George Washington frequented the tavern a woman named Mary Hawkins. Here is an entry from Washington's diary dated January 17, 1774.
17. Went up to Alexa. to Court. Dind at Arrels. Suppd at Mrs. Hawkins & came home afterwards. [1]
The Enduring Legacy of Taverns
Colonial taverns were more than places to grab a drink; they were essential to the growth of American towns. These establishments offered weary travelers a place to rest, provided space for community gatherings, and even played a role in the American Revolution, where patriots met to discuss resistance against British rule.
Today, Alexandria's historic taverns—like Gadsby’s Tavern—continue to tell the stories of the past. If you ever visit, take a moment to imagine what it was like centuries ago—when a simple stop at an "ordinary" could bring unexpected adventures, lively debates, and even encounters with figures like George Washington himself.
Alexandria History Tours recently launched its Old Town Tavern Tour to give visitors the chance to learn more about Alexandria's rich tavern history. Check it out and join us on a tour of Old Town Alexandria.
What’s the most historic tavern you’ve ever visited? Let us know in the comments!
Sources:
[1] “[Diary entry: 17 January 1774],” Founders Online, National Archives, https://founders.archives.gov/documents/Washington/01-03-02-0004-0001-0017.
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